The Spiti Ordeal

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I was really waiting from a Long time to be in Spiti valley as i had did Ladakh for 2 times but didn’t get the chance to be in Spiti valley, also called as Real Himachal. So in June I got a chance to explore Spiti valley on a Solo ride but i turned out be the most exciting and unexpected trip of my life which even I never dreamed about.

Day 1 Hamirpur-Jhakri

All set for the Ride

Its been now quite a while a was repeatedly hearing about Jalori Jot or Jalori Pass (at 3135 mts) now and then from many guys and many done that telling their tales about the Pass itself as it is one of the most steepest and toughest motorable pass in Himachal.

Pandoh dam outlet
Beas river view

Crossing Mandi and Pandoh was not a big deal and reaching Aut was piece of cake, from there a right turn lead me to one of the famous and beautiful Banjar valley, so serene so cool even in the month of May-June, and slowly as I aproached Banjar the accent started to increase slowly and steadily. Sooner it got quite steeper and reached Jibhi in no time.Chill in the wind and treat for the eyes, the main event of the ride around Jibhi.

One of the major traffic jams in Himalayas
Welcome to Banjar valley

The accent kept on rising and all of a sudden i felt my Bullet 350 started giving up slowly but somehow i managed to keep it working upto somewhere around 5 kms away from Jalori Top. And shit happened, Bullet refused to climb up anymore and gave up. Tried kicking it many times but couldn’t start it. Now what frustration started copping up and thoughts of getting down started to came but i was not ready to do that, Jalori can’t defeat me and my bullet, I have climbed much more higher passes than that so i decided not to give up. First thing was to take out the Air filter as it was leaking with Engine oil, gave a try it dint work. Now time to clean the pipes taking supply to engine but again it didn’t work. Now what nothing working out and now fear of going down started again to cope up in my mind. Then finally it was turn of Spark Plug, Somehow managed to take out hot spark plug from burning engine and Bingo it was full of carbon so black, and thank god i always carry a spare spark plug with me, changed the plug and bingo my Darling started like anything, What an awesome roar and here I go again climbing the steepness of Jalori at 2nd and 3rd gear and in no time i was at top .

Accent to Jalori pass
Mahakali temple at Jalori Top
Beautiful patch while Decending Jalori

Had a small pit stop, had tea and clicked few clicks around and then started further journey to Rampur via Aani. It was a huge decent like about 30-40 kms and as i was going down all the fun of cool breeze gone away and reaching Aani was worst nightmare for a guy looking for relief from hot summers. Aani was burning up like high 40’s and it continues till Rampur. Had lunch on the way and got my Bike fixed at Rampur as it was having an extra quota of Engine Oil in engine which was removed there and got a brand new Air Filter and got my tank filled at Rampur and called of the day in Jhakri at my friend’s place . And weather God got happy on me and it drizzled over Jhakri alongwith some Thunderstorm.

Evening at Mountains of Rampur

Day 2 Jhakri-Chitkul
Waterfall seen on the way to Srahan
Its my second day of ride from Jhakri to Chitkul so-called last village of  India and was really excited as I was going to touch the Land of Kinnaur. It was a dream come true to visit Kinnaur. I got ready and headed towards my Bullet, Ohhh it had a flat front tyre. I quickly took out my foot pump and filled the tyre and rode the bike to nearby puncture shop at Jhakri. After fixing the tyre and having breakfast I left from jhakri around 10 am. Beautiful serene surrounding, good road and nice cool breeze blowing, I was loving the ride. Just after few Kms of ride, my riding jacket was missing and got worried so turned the bike back to find it and just 1 km behind saw a guy picking up my jacket and was about to put it on his scooter. I shouted from far itself “Ruko bhai, ruko bhai saab ye meri hai ise na le jao “ and that way I got it back and then realised that a truck passed over it and shoulder gaurd was out of shape and with few stretches and punches it was back in shape.
Common mysterious roads of Kinnaur
Reached Jeori in no time and took a right turn to Sarahan. It was a nice road and rode up towards teher and wanted to visit the famous Bheemkali temple and I was there in few minutes,in front of beautiful and sacred Bheem kali temple. Clicked few pics around then had a tea, I decided to ride to my next destination with the blessings of Mata Bhimakali. I came down to Jeori and continued my journey towards Kinnaur.
Bheemkali ma temple at Srahan

Just after few kms there came the gate welcoming me into Kinnaur and then just after few more Kms I reached the real mountain gate of Kinnaur, a mandatory click and I am off again to beauty rock-cut roads of Kinnaur. Ride was good till Wangtu and roads were also awesome black tarmac with no pit holes but after Wangtu whole black tarmac changed into rough road and now I don’t had to worry at all for pot holes and gravel as it was full of those stuff.

Welcome to Kinnaur

Real gate of Kinnaur
Rock cut roads of Kinnaur
I saw 2 small hut shops so had a small tea snack break at Wangtu, then continued my journey to Tapri. But another pit stop just few kms ahead of  Wangtu and road widening work was in progress. After an hour break because of road clearance in sun beating afternoon started my journey again, reached Tapri, got my tank filled and after few kms reached Karcham and there took turn towards Sangla valley.
Road to Sangla
Had heard a lot about Sangla valley form many others and it was also one of my dream destinations and yes its place worth dreaming, beautiful challenging rock-cut roads with deep valley around, and reached Sangla in no time. It was first time that I felt real chill in the air. Sangla crossed and continued towards Rakcham, all beautiful silent valley full of life, just can’t express feelings in words as one has to be there to feel this beauty.
Sangla village
Beauty of Sangla Valley
Rakcham crossed and all of sudden drastic change in terrains, crossed first nallah crossing of the ride and it was damn exciting. When I saw that nullah, I realised that now its time for real riding fun,I was waiting for such nullahs and rough terrains to ride on.
Road after Rakcham to Chitkul
Naveen thakur and his Friends
Road was nice till Chitkul and Ride was fun with lots of mesmerizing views to remember and click. Reached Chitkul around 6pm found a nice cozy room for 250 bucks so parked my Bullet safely. I asked the owner for some liquor and she told that only Kinnauri is available. A wine made up of barley and apple wine is still quite fresh as it will take 15 more days for apple wine. Got a company there found 4 guys from Rajsthan and a Driver from Hamirpur itself and a group of 5 Isreali girls which came down at the restraunt for Dinner. I was enjoying the evening and all of sudden found someone shouting my name outside and met Naveen Thakur, a guy from Hamirpur there and one of my riding friend came chitkul with his friends and family, which meant more party with a bonfire and lots of barley wine .
Also created a Timelaps Video of a Chitkul evening, Hope you guys enjoy it
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1B7oTohmP3M&list=UURzcmL0okvlcb4Phq8sXihg&index=1&feature=plcp

Last home of last village of India
Sunset on Himalayas
Sunset at Chitkul
Night view from PWD rest house Chitkul
High mountains surrounding Chitkul
Tradition Ghraat at Chitkul
It was awesome feeling spending time in last inhabited village of India. I get excited by mere thought of that place. Hope someday I shall go there soon and spend few more days exploring adjoining areas around.
Day 3 Chitkul-Nako
Woke up early after a bumpy ride from Jhakri but was feeling too lazy to get off the bed, but as have to switch up with the schedules I finally left room around 9:00, and had breakfast along with friends I met last evening. Left Chitkul around 10:00am as planned initially to visit Kalpa, then give a try for permits of Shipki la at Peo and then to move Shipki la and further but all my planning gone vain as I gotta know that the DM was out of station. Unfortunately it was Saturday, ahh… luck didn’t work this time. So I  started for Peo and then decided to head towards Nako on the same day so that can save time for further riding plans.
Beautiful Baspa river and Valley

Beautiful Baspa valley near Sangla

A Village in Baspa river valley

Dangerously beautiful rockcut road to Sangla

Road to Peo along with Raging Satluj

Peo town with Kinner kailash Range
Till Akpa ride was quite rough but after few kms the road changed into awesome newly black tarred smooth roads and it was fun riding on Indo-Tibet road. After having a break in Spello started further ride towards Peo. Roads were not great condition here and the things got worse when clouds came along chilling winds.

Aproaching Akpa while riding along with Very Deep valley

Never Ending road alongside Never ending Valley

Beautiful Butt Break Spot- A raging water stream

Yet another Butt break spot while apraoching Spello

These forts are believed to be constructed by Pandvas near Spello

Welcome to Spello the gate says this 🙂
Just crossing after Khaab and climbing few kms there comes the series of Zigs towards Ka village which is commonly known as Ka Zigs and it was real fun riding on there and in no time around 7:30 I was in Nako village and. Luckily all of sudden met there an IITian, facebook friend Roushon Singh who was also riding to Spiti, so we planned to ride further together for rest of ride.

The famous Khaab Bridge- Confluence of Spiti and Satluj River(coming from Right)
Series of Hair pin bends know as Ka-zigs

The whole view changes after climbing Ka-zigs, yet another view of hair pin bends

Ka village after climbing Ka-Zigs, the green patch is village itself

Climb towards Nako

Beautiful Sunset at NakoDay 4 Nako-Kaza
Today, started my day early morning at 6:00 am, so decided to go off for a walk around in Nako.During my walk soon I came across a serene and calm small lake. Enthralled by the beauty of nature there, I decided to click around there and in village area.After I came back had breakfast with Roushan and then decided to take a quick walk around the lake again as he hasn’t been to lake due to late sleeping.

Morning reflections over the Nako lake
Beautiful heavenly reflections, loved the morning hour clicks while water was silent
Heavenly village of Nako
First glimpse of newly build Nako Monastery
A monochromatic view nearby Nako
Panoramic view of a Biker at Maling Nallah

Afterwards we started our ride towards Kaza.Roads there were in prime condition so it was real fun riding in the Himalayas. In no time we reached Chango and then from there to Sumdo Post and then we left from Kinnaur to Spiti valley.As Roushan was having permits for Kaurik we parted our roads and I took my way to Geu Village to get blessings from 500 yrs old Mummy which was found in Geu Village few years back while ITBP guys were cutting the rocks. It was fun offroading till Geu and in approximate 02 hours. People are building new Monastery alongside the Mummy and it was quite chilly experience there as very cold winds were blowing at the place. Even i couldn’t spot a single tea shop in whole village and the place have to be develop soon to attract the tourists to the Village.

Stunningly beautiful Moonscape en-route Chango
Welcome to Spiti valley says the board near Sumdo
On the way to Geu village to witness the sacred mummy
Gue village seen from the site where mummy was found, the village is like 8 kms on the left of main road while going towards Kaza from Sumdo.
Sacred mummy at Gue which was found while cutting down the mountain. As per stories when ITBP guys were cutting the mountain they saw blood on stones and realized they have hit the mummy and blood came from it. It is also said after mummy was established its hairs and nails started growing at its own, so its sacred mummy is know to be around 500 years old.

I joined back the main road towards Tabo Monestry. Ride was good on a bright sunny day but the roads getting worse and worse after Chango. It was fun ride and reached Tabo around noon. After having lunch explored the monastery a bit and started my journey back towards Kaza.

On the way to Tabo monastery riding alongside Spiti river
Highway to Tabo, Riding was sheer fun
Beautiful Chorthen at Tabo Monastery

On the way saw the road towards Dhankar Monastery so visited there but half heartedly skipped Dhankar lake for the next time ride into the valley again. Around evening reached Kaza hired a room and waited for Roushan who reached around 9:30pm.It was tiring day but had fun, Dream of getting to Spiti valley was getting fulfilled.

Here are few pics of the ride and I think i need not speak let the pictures speak.

Beautiful India- Confluence of Spiti river and Pin river(left)
Dhankar Monastery also know as Dhank Ghar in local language one of the Oldest in the valley is beautiful build over the decaying mountain.
Closure view of the Gompa
Panoramic view of Dhankar Monastery
Confluence of Pin river and Spiti river
Spiti river Panoramic view
Another view of Dhankar Monastery from the road to Kaza
Panoramic view of beautiful mountain formations on the way
Prayer flags and a Chorthen near Kaza

 

Day 5 Kaza-Langza-Komix-Hikkim-Kaza

It was a day to explore Spiti region and places around Kaza. We got to know about 3 village above 4400 mts in the region nearby Langza, Komic and Hikkim, so me and Roushan Singh decided to explore the region. It was nice ride and amazing views, had traditional lunch at Langza monastery as there was a festival going on and all nearby villagers gathered there. It was real treat to vitness the beauty of Chau Chau Kang Nilda peak, the highest n the region. Komic village is one of the highest inhabited village in the world and Hikkim village with the highest Post office in the world were real highlight of the day. The most mesmerizing moment of the day was awesome view of Spiti river basin and bird eye view of Kaza while descending towards Kaza from Hikkim village. Here are the pics.

View of Spiti river and Kaza town

The Biker Roushan Singh and his view
Spiti river basin is most amazing river basin I have ever seen
Yet another view from the Stunning river basin
My Royal Enfeild at Langza 1
Langza village with Chau Chau Kang Nilda peak in backdrop, Highest in the region.
Beautiful heavenly village of Langza
Medicine Budha taking care of Himalayas at Langza
Medicine Budha at Langza
Fields at Langza
Few clicks inside the Langza Monastery
Prayer Lamps inside the monastery
Inside Monestry
Monk asking Blessings for us
Cute kid at Langza
Then we further moved to Komic village after crossing Lagza 2. It was quite a ascent towards Komic village.
All about Village Komic
Komic village in Laps of Himalayas with snow clad mountains surrounding at 4513 mts
Komic Monastery- Highest monastery in Spiti region
Komic monastery with Shining sun
On the way to Demul village but finally a road block stopped me going further ahead
After knowing we cant move further ahead, we decided to headback to Kaza and visit Hikkim on the way back. Hikkim is famous for having worlds highest Post Office.Hikkim has population of 600. There is a motorable road till Hikkim. The nearest main post office is at Kaza, located 25 kms away. The nearest hospital is at Kaza. Around 50 people have a savings account in the Hikkim post office. The post office handles around 15-20 letters everyday. Mr Chhering has been at the post office since November 1983.
Hikkim village seen from Far while descending from Komic
Hikkim village with snow clad mountains in backdrop
Summit of Chau Chau Kang Nilda in backdrop with Hikkim Village
Bird eye view of Kaza Town
Yet another view of Spiti river basin, Its just so beautiful
Shinning streams of Spiti river in evening with Rangrik village in left 

Rangreek village seen from the Top
Day 6-10 Kaza-Pin Valley- Pinned in Pin Valley
It was day 6 of the Ride to Spiti and was enjoying the Trip a lot. Yet another beautiful day to ride on with sun out,cool breeze blowing and one can say that a perfect day to ride. Both me and Roushan, (   met him at Nako ) started our ride to Pin valley around 9 in the morning, Met a herd of Yaks which was good sign for the day.
Happy Family of Yaks
After  riding  around 18 kms from Kaza  (Spiti valley headquarters) we reached Atargu, from where the road to pin valley diverts. Entered into the valley and rode along the Pin river.Amazing water sound and purity in the air just gave a super awesome feeling. A shock wave ran through me when i saw a dark water stream turning the greenish pure water dirty and turbid. This filled me with curiosity to find out the origin of that stream. Rode for around 12 kms form  Agartu, had a stop at a Nallah with a small Bridge over it and here was the reason of the blackening of pin river water. A polluted water stream coming from the Nallah caught hold over me and  we took a pit stop there and had a detailed talk over it with Roushan discussing what might be the reason for it.
Bridge At Atargu connecting to Pin Valley
Welcome to Pin Valley- Gate to Heavens
Mysterious Black water
Leaving that stream apart continued our ride towards first Village of Pin valley Gulling, and kept moving to Kungri Gompa without taking a halt. Kungri Gompa is around 2 kms from Gulling and undoubtedly is an awesome place to be. Spent half an hour there, clicked amazing shots and headed towards the next destination, Mudh , the last village of Pin valley. The ride till Mudh was awesome, had a small spell of Snow flakes too. On our way we were discussing about going towards Bhabha Pass as had heard about an under construction road to Bhabha pass but a mud water stream was a big hurdle as it was deep and vigorous so we couldn’t cross it. The journey ahead seemed nearly impossible, so had lunch at Mudh and decided to head back. Mean while a guy approached me there asking me if I was Akaash. “Yes thats me” and so he introduced himself. Nikhil Dixit from Dehli a Fellow BCMTian and knew me well through BCMT . We also had a common friend Dheeraj .With this new acquaintance, we started our journey back to Kaza as all  our luggage was in a hotel in Kaza. Journey back was a beautiful one and we were enjoying the great scene of the Pin valley.
Witnessing Surreal beauty of Pin valley
Kungri Gompa in Pin Valley
One of many beautiful Villages of Pin Valley
Pin River Basin, I m Speechless
Mudh Village- Last village of Pin Valley
The last point till where we can go

 

The Mud flow from the Nullah

As we crossed Gulling, we saw a car coming from Kaza  to Gulling and there we heard some female voice screaming out loud ” road block don’t go ahead, Road block”. I took it lightly as they were in a car and I thought it might be a land slide and as we were on Bikes we can manage to cross it so we headed towards Kaza and as soon as we reached the spot or road block i was surprised to see something that i had never seen before. The black water nullah was huge now , the bridge was gone, and we could see thick mud moving down like Lava.  Within no time I took the decision to move back to Gulling to find shelter before others.
We came back to Gulling, found shelter but the wait had started. I was sure road will open the next day. Soon we found others stuck in the situation too. Mr PV, ( IITB alumnus of 1975 batch) Parul aunty, Jon and Manda from Canada, Nikhil and Anamika with their daughter Chavvi, and Sameer and Anand from JNU. Killing time was yet another good experience as we relaxed and shared our experiences . Thanks to Kinnauri( A Barley Wine), it helped us all a good deal in doing so.John and Menda were a couple from Cannada and had been traveling in India since 5 long months and were thus quite familiar to the country and its life style  now. Anand opted to take rest and sleep as he was down with AMS while Sameer, a guy full of life was an awesome company .
Valley View Home Stay, Pin Valley Gulling, Home for 5 days
Sonam and Roushan
John and Menda- Canadian Couple
Newly made friends In Pin Valley
Chavvi Daughter of Nikhil Dixit in Play
No good news of the unblocking of the roads was to reach our ears in the next few days.Another interesting event during our visit  was the marriage that was to take place in the Sagnam village nearby ( Biggest village of Pin valley) .All the preparations were done but the Bride and the Groom were both stuck in Kaza .They were supposed to reach there the previous day but  because of slide they were stuck on the other side of the slush.The owner of the Pin valley Home stay, Mr. Tundup was quite sure that something would work out very soon, as all the PWD officers belonged to Gulling. But the slush, it gave no signs to even calm down. It continued to flow with huge mud and ice boulders keeping the road blocked to the next day too.
Day three started with new hope as we learned about a dozer on its way to clear the road, so all of us moved to the block area with our vehicles. The slush had stopped by then and it was only muddy water that was flowing down now. PWD came prepared with pipes and other equipments and I was quite sure that it would take 2 to 3 hours to clear the road. Another helping aid, a JCB from Gulling had also reached the spot, so the work was on full speed from both the sides.We were now full of positivity and moved for lunch. But time the next grant us good time of relief , A huge pile of slush has messed up the bettering situation. Ah! I called for the Barley wine again and sat frustrated to kill time. to add to the frustration, a new company had found shelter in the hotel. a group of 12 Israelis who were good enough to kill the peace of the place and convert the heaven into a zoo. Hahaha. That night was the hardest night to pass.
3rd day Flow of slush and Lake Size
Source of Slush The Nullah which created the whole scene
Formation of lake due to Mud Slush Block
Work under progress from Both sides making Spirits high on Day 3
Pin Valley slush Panoramic View on Nullah
Day 4 , It was obvious that taking a four-wheeler through that slide was impossible, but to make a pathway for bikes would not take more than 3 hours , so Mr. PV and his friends decided to leave the Cabs and cross the slush in morning.Nikhil and his family resorted to the same and successfully crossed it.Me,Roushan, Sameer, John, Menda, and Anand decided to wait for another day as they were building a temporary rope-way for helping people to cross and also pass the essential goods . The Israeli group had ventured back to MUD making it peaceful and silent again . We had decided to leave our vehicles and will cross the slush any how.
Few of those Unsocial Israelis
Lamas on Top
A long exposure Night shot at Gulling
Day 5 Left my Bullet aka Darling there with a heavy heart, and went to the site. Things had worsened there. That stream had turned into a lake because of a temporary Dam built of Mud and the road had now started sinking too.The slush was now 50 mts wide, and was like quick sand full of crystals. We saw a few people cross it and come out with wounds and cuts on their legs . The crystals had sharp and pointed edges. We waiting till 1 pm hoping  the rope way to be fixed by then. But the irony of the situation had no mercy on us. The required equipments were on one side of the slush while the manpower on the other. Roushan , full of young blood was too desperate to cross it asap but we wanted to wait for the situation to get under control. But later, i felt making a rope way was no more possible. Now it was time for action. I started to tie up my shoes and prepared myself  for the jump. Roushan was already in,and i followed him. It was exciting and the adrenaline pumped  hard . 10 mts patch on the Gulling side was easy to cross as they had a huge rope hanging and just slided over it , next 30 mts was full of stone,  water and gravel so not a big problem, but the last 10 mts was the worst and had to hold a hanging rope and then walk over another rope which was the hardest thing to do. Slowly it started sinking in the mud that had reached my thighs. Aaaaaghhh ! The last 1 meter was hardest as I was worn out and it was hard to move  the feet. Before i could panic, a great thought by Bear Grylls from The Man Vs Wild  struck me. I took a deep breath and the people around helped me take me feet out of that mud and finally I reached  the other side.All of our people who were on other side crossed the killer lake  successfully with only few bruises.
Last click before leaving her with a heavy heart for next month or so
Alternate path when road also got submerged in lake
It’s not piece of cake to cross such a mess, They were the inspiration The Locals
Rope for alternate rope-way which helped us crossing the slush
Finally got through the Slush and final shot
Finally we got Out of Pin valley on fifth day leaving my darling behind in the safe hand of Mr. Tundup . With an Unfinished ride I moved my way back.The real fun started after getting out of valley as i was now backpacking and had few things in ma mind while going back home. The most exciting part was had to come back again to Pin valley to get her back which I did after 40 long days and that story will b dealt in another Post .
Special Thanks to Mr.Tundup and Pin Valley people for the love and support
Day 11-12 Kaza-Batal-Manali-Hamirpur
I was now backpacking ( it was around 30+ kg now)  but had no clue what path to follow .  I  figured out  2 options; First one was to catch a bus from Kaza to Hamirpur, which was a 24 hrs long journey while the other option was the other route from Kaza to Manali which was officially not open yet, so no vehicles were actually crossing it but few were going upto Kunzum top , batal and chandertal. I was with Roushan (a riding partner I met at a stop called Nako on the way) and a canadian couple (as reffered to in above post ) John and Manda and we were planning to visit Chandertal and then to continue towards Manali a shorter way to reach home. But the problem was we only had one Tent with us and two sleeping bags and the Canadian couple was without both tent and sleeping bags. So we tried to arrange that in Kaza but wasn’t any luck. Now plan was to get a cab till Kumzum top and from there we would head towards Manali on foot and would look for some vehicle on the way.
Key monestary seen from Spiti-Manali highway

Beautiful curves of Spiti Valley
As per plan we hired a Cab in the morning and took a four hours cozy ride to Kunzum Top. It was fun. Roushan had different plans from Kunzum top, so he decided to head towards Chandertal and I decided  to opt out and cover it on my way back instead. So Roushan left towards Chandertaal and we started the on foot journey towards Batal, a small halt on the way to Manali after Kunzum top.
Temple and Prayer flags at Kunzum Top
Kunzum Top Panorama of temple and Chorthens
It was an amazing experience walking on the deserted roads as the road was blocked still and it took around 4 hours to reach Batal.A cloudy day with chilly winds blowing . It  was a real nice day to call off at Batal as we were quite tired after the 12 kms walk. We reached the Batal accommodation at around 6 pm and were welcomed by the owner of the Tents who is pitching the tents there from last 37 yrs .He had loads of stories to share and we had enough time to listen to the adventurous stories. We spent a long time talking and sipping goat milk tea.2 more Isrealies coming from Chandertal joined us after a hour or so. They were also heading towards Manali so now things were clear that we had to walk 60 more Kms before we could get a vehicle to Manali or if we were lucky enough, we could get a vehicle on the way. So we called the day off around 9 as it was freezing cold outside. My thermometer showed 4 degrees inside the tents. We decided to move early in the morning at around 5 so that we could reach some safer location in time.
Lovely summit and Glacier remains seen from Kunzum Top
John and Manda descending one of the shortcuts
View while descending towards Batal from Kunzum top, one can also see the Chandra river flowing
While walking towards Chota Drra
And its another fun to have on snow, Snow Slide
Machine at Rest and no man at Work
Walking on barren roads at High altitudes is a different Experience
And the Fun continues and more interesting
We walked 12 kms and met a few Gaddis from Palampur who were on their way to grasslands around Chandertal.
Sheeps in mountains, trademark of Himalayas
Mr. Gaddi In Spiti
Lovely heavenly views of Spiti valley
Another treat for eyes
I was surprised to see a White Gypsy on our way. I was so happy to see a vehicle and as it came closer, I asked for a lift . The driver stopped and found that vehicle belonged to the DM of Kaza , and was going towards Keylong to give updates about pin valley situation. Since the vehicle could not house all of us, I made myself clear that I would get in for sure, and rest can decide on who would accompany me but to our surprise, the DM offered help as he had asked another vehicle from Keylong to rescue him in case his vehicle gets stuck near that hurdle on the way but his driver managed to cross his 4×4 gypsy by putting boulders over the glacier snow. So now everyone could get a vehicle for their travel. The rest of guyz waited for the vehicle and meanwhile I  got into the Gypsy.
DM Kaza- My saviour
Some views cant be explained in words
Nearing Gramphoo yet another Sheep herd
Within 3 hours we reached Gramphoo and this filled me with joy as now I could get home the same day. The only hurdle was Rohtang Pass and the tourist flood there. On my way I had the famous mutton rice at the only Dhabha at Gramphoo and then waited for lift or some other mode of transport till Manali or Rohtang top. It was drizzling there but luckily I found an empty cab and the driver agreed to drop me till Manali in just 300 rupees. I was enjoying the pleasant weather and saw traffic for first time after 30 hours. Reached Rohtang top at around 2:30 and then the shit happened. A long traffic jam till the next 5 kms and the reason was again the famous Rani nullah. It was a long slow wait and we reached Manali at 8:30.
Spiti valley view while ascending towards Rohtang
Jai ho HRTC
Black tarmac and white snow and lots of fog
Snow walls at Rohtang Top
The Great Popular Jam of Rohtang
Panoramic view from Rohtang towards Manali
There was no direct bus to Hamirpur from there so now again I had 2 options. Either spend another night in Manali and take a bus the next day or take a bus till Bilaspur and pray to find another to Hamirpur.I got a bus till bilaspur HRTC of Kullu Depo and believe me seats were so tight that a 6’3 guy like me in no condition could fit on any seat on the bus. It was a real pain ride till Mandi and i was now in no shape to travel further in the bus. So i left the bus in Mandi and planned to hire a cab till Hamirpur. The driver quoted 2k  but since I had no option I agreed and reached home around 3:30 AM.
Panchmukhi Hanuman ji in Hamirpur clicked around 2:30 AM
Aaahh! A long yet another unforgettable experience of my life.